Tucked away in India’s “Wild East” is the state of Assam. With wide open spaces, silk weaving, tea plantations, and thriving wildlife reserves, it is surprisingly absent from the tourist radar. That is exactly the sort of place for an E.Y.H.O. tour. For seven days, my husband and I explored Assam. Atop an elephant, we swayed through Kaziranga, home of the rare one-horned rhino. Kaziranga is one of the few success stories in the world of rhino conservation. The rhino populatio
Many centuries ago, two Indian territories fought a long and vicious war. As the dust settled, the new king executed the defeated king. His newly widowed queen feared that the victorious king would also kill her son, the prince. That night, after the sun had set over the blood-soaked earth, the queen summoned her most trusted maid, an Ahir woman named Dhuna Makwani. She begged Dhuna to hide the prince. Dhuna Makwani, who had a son of the same age as the prince, swore an oath