Kashmir - On the Pashmina Trail 1
- Shila Desai
- Oct 19, 2024
- 3 min read
Updated: Feb 26, 2025
This past spring, two showstopping regions tucked away in the high Himalayas delivered unexpected delights. We traced the journey of pashmina from pastures in remote Ladakh to looms in Kashmir. Along the way, many cups of kehwa and butter tea were consumed in memorable encounters with nomads and renowned artisans alike.
Sit back and enjoy a trip report from our latest foray. If you've already decided you'd rather see for yourself, head over to the tour page to register!
Kashmir has entranced travellers, emperors, and artisans alike since the days of the Silk Route. As soon as it reopened foreign travellers, it was a given that I would organize a tour. I had waited a long time to return, especially for the Pashmina. In researching the trip, it wasn't enough to see this magical fibre on the loom and in the skilled hands of embroiders. It was imperative to trace it back to its source. Pashmina is found only on altitudes about 15,000 feet. For that we needed to track down the Changthangi nomads along dusty roads into the highest reaches of the Himalayas.
The setting was predictably stunning. It's hard to describe how majestic the Himalayas are. Let me show you instead!
Morning kehwa, Kashmir Kashmir- Chinar love affair An average view Approach, vale of Kashmir Mughal Gardens Mughal Gardens Fair Valley Rainy walk Dal Lake
Because of the seasons, we started in Kashmir. The traffic in Srinagar to access the UNESCO designated Old Town was more maddening than I remembered. But the payoff of seeing the creation of fabled masterpieces from the most coveted of fibres was huge. We took in Pashmina spinning, washing, dyeing, different types of weaving, naqsh or printing, and exquisite sozni and jamavar embroidery.
Kani weaving close up Fiendishly difficult Kani Pashmina washing ghats Sozni embroiderer A naqsh or printer Naqsh printer at work Jamavar embroidered pashmina Kani on the loom Kani and sozni in one Pashmina spinning Close up Sozni work Crewel or Ari embroidery
Exploring the ancient city of Srinagar, recently designated as a UNESCO heritage site, allowed us to discover hidden corners and small shops offering fascinating wares. A shop owner, whose family has been producing rose water or Arq-e-Gulab for two centuries, exhibited his antique bottles still containing the rich essence. Rosewater is used as a fragrance for the face and skin, but also for sprinkling in mosques and shrines as an act of devotion. While at the incredibly beautiful Khan-Ka-Maula mausoleum, a craftsman meticulously restored intricate lacquer work. Simply spending an hour gazing out of a window overlooking the Jellum River was to truly connect with this timeless city.
Taking his ease Kozgar's rosewater shop A Snackery Picnics in meadows Look up! Khan ka Maula artisan Khan ka Maula, all lacquer Doorway Old city architecture Always a cup of khewa Whiling away, River Jhelum Old city washing line
No visit to Kashmir is complete without a romantic houseboat stay on beautiful Dal Lake. Who were we to disagree? Crafted entirely of walnut wood, these lake princesses are an escape to a bygone era. Old-fashioned hospitality, sumptuous bedrooms, and beautifully appointed interiors were a treat for the senses while being gently lulled by the lapping water.
As beautiful as I remember Morning view Made entirely of walnut wood Culinary heaven begins here Sunset Merchant navy Merchant navy 2 Shikara operator Khewa welcome, of course
Learning from artisans. Hands-on workshops in Lacquer and papier machè and crewel embroidery.
Papier mache workshop Crewel embroidery Lunch with artisans Learning the trade Papier mache ... fun! And now the painting Master artisan's work Heritage House Learning about papier mache Always the welcoming kehwa! Intricate painting Welcome! Don't miss the door
Next stop, Ladakh. Scroll to the next post.
We will do it all again in Spring 2025. Are you in? Registration now open!
Accolades
“A joy to travel with you to a truly stunning part of India! A special place with so many talented artisans.” – Anne A., Staffordshire
''I'm still talking about the trip and telling everyone about the fabulous time we had!"
Breadth of the trip, number of crafts encountered, diversity of activities, the quality of guides, geography covered -- all provided a comprehensive introduction to Kashmir. -- S.M, New York
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Thanks for taking a look! I am Shila Desai, owner of E.Y.H.O. Tours. I personally handcraft itineraries, infusing them with curated activities, accommodations, and sightseeing. Together with my in-country teams, we deliver exceptional holidays every time. I invite you to leave me a comment or write shila@eyhotours.com
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